Fix Sticky Scroll Wheel Logitech Mouse
What you’ll need
A very small-headed Phillips screwdriver.A small flathead screwdriver or a butter knife.A small piece of stock paper or a Q-tip.Optional: Compressed air can
So, you have the mouse, and it’s ready for maintenance. To do any work on it, we will first have to separate the top shell from the bottom—the bottom cases, the tech components, and the batteries and optical or laser sensor. Flip the mouse and get ready to work.
The first thing you’ll need to do is turn off the Mouse and pull out the batteries. Next, we need to expose all of the screw holes. Most Logitech models have 3 or 4 screw holes. These are located underneath the larger surface pads, so you’ll have to remove them. The easiest way to do this is by prying them with a butter knife or a flat screwdriver. Just do it slowly, and they won’t be damaged. Additionally, you may need to remove a battery sticker to expose a screw hiding in the battery bay. Important Tip
If you remove the surface pads and battery sticker carefully, you can reuse them. The underside has an adhesive, so try not to let it touch anything except for the part of the mouse it is supposed to attach to.
Unscrew all of the screws, and the top shell should separate from the bottom of the mouse. Don’t force it apart! It should be effortless to separate if you feel any resistance at all. It is likely because you missed a screw.
Once you have the mouse open, one long cable will connect the top to the bottom. This cable can be unplugged to make things easier. On the bottom half of the mouse, the connection port is easy to access. Make a mental note of which side is which because it will need to be reinserted facing the same way. In the case of my mouse, the red line is facing outwards away from the center of the device. Gently pull on the cord to remove it. Close to its end, there should be hard plastic reinforcement to make pulling it out safer.
Now you’ll have unhindered access to the bottom components of the mouse. This is where you grab a Q-tip or piece of stock paper and do some cleaning. Just insert it around the sides and scrape out as much as you possibly can. Compressed air can also come in handy. If you’ve had your mouse for a year or longer, then chances are a lot of dust, lint, and fuzz will come out of the mouse wheel chamber as you clean it.
Note – It’s possible to completely remove the mouse wheel from the chamber and give it a thorough cleaning. However, this can be very complicated in precision and performance models as springs, and other mechanisms are easy to mess up.
Once it is cleaned, all you have to do is reassemble the mouse in the reverse order. I hope this helps anyone who has issues with an unresponsive mouse wheel. I’ve had my Logitech MX1100 Pro for about three years now, and it recently started acting up. After this process, I found that it had an entire ball of lint gathered up beneath the wheel in the mouse chamber. With the lint removed, the mouse is working just as it did the day I opened it out of the retail box. If this were a wired mouse, I wouldn’t go through all the trouble, but wireless isn’t as cheap and disposable. I’d love to hear feedback from anyone who tries this or has already done something similar to fix mouse wheel issues on any brand of mouse. After a newer, smaller one got gunked-up and I cleaned it, I discovered that on re-assembly that little loose on-off sliding switch lever on the bottom was near impossible to impossible to keep in position while the clamshells were screwed back in place. I solved the problem by placing some sticky tape over the outside (underside) surface of the lower clamshell so it would also stick to underside of the little little lever, holding it in place long enough to screw the bottom section it into place. Make sure that the lever is in the proper position to engage the prongs of its switch on the opposing part of the assembly when positioning it onto the tape. (Not as complicated as it sounds.) So I beat the Logitech engineers in their attempt to force me to repair, rather than toss it and buy another. Brand new condition was where it could do the largest static webpage or document drilling straight in is just insane it goes and goes and goes either to the top or bottom scrolling with one flick of the wheel. (Sorry that isn’t a scientific explanation but those with the mouse will know exactly what I mean) Probably not required but I used a little 91% alcohol where goo was stubborn, and paper towels instead of q-tip. I also had compressed air. Things were not looking good until the compressed air and boom she came back from the dead after puking out a couple green lint balls. I mostly concentrated on getting the hair like filaments out and stop sticking to sides of wheel I can’t imagine working in a PET SHOP!!! ;o) Don’t forget the cylinder that hits the laser optics for filaments/hairs. Good Day Sir Thank you! Identifying the model (MX1100 Pro) in order to google for information was the other challenge (the info can’t be found anywhere on the device itself but only on the transmitter). Many thanks @Austin Krause! My mouse wheel was actually stuck in the free-scrolling mode (without the clicks), since one of the pieces got loose when the mouse fell on the floor. Although this tutorial didn’t address the problem directly, it helped me figure it out and fix it. Thanks again! I was able to open it, clean it with alcohol and it freed up. There was no visible fuzz or dust. Soon after, resistance returned. I’ve cleaned it a few times now. Sometimes it loosens for a bit, then resistance returns a couple of hours or days later, then it frees up again for awhile. I’m not sure what is happening. It was resistant this morning, then freed up for several hours and now resistance is returning. Any thoughts? Comment Name * Email *
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